When I turn key into the next position, nothing happens unless the "secret button" is pressed. When I turn it to first position, then the radio turn on. When I put in key in the ignition, nothing happens. Or it was exactly the same temp on both sensors and I didn't notice any difference by switching between them, which I doubt.Ĭould the problem for not accessing test7 temp senor2 be car aftermarket security? I have some kind of "secret button" installed on my car. I did not get any results from the other sensor. Everything I got was just KTMP which I could access with running engine and electric tachometer. I turned off the engine and then tried to access test7. But the problem is that i cannot access the other temp sensor. Even when I "drifted" in gear 2 on high rpm for a while, the temp increased just by 2-3 degrees. Then the car was heated up and just to make sure I drove to an old army airport's road where the local ''drifters" hang out I turned on Test7 and it showed 86C. First of all, I drove the car for about 10km. ![]() no bad, corroded connections with high resistance or poor contact. Note that the assumption here is that the circuity, wiring and plugs, is good. In this case:Ī) If the the engine is ~95 C, and the gauge is low, the gauge is faulty.ī) If the engine temp is much less than ~ 95 C, your thermostat is faulty. If they agree, assume both are accurate and you truly know what the coolant temp is. If the two temperature readings differ by more than a few degrees, replace the dual temp sensor in the head. You now have reading from both thermistors. engine off but accessories on (not position 0, where you can remove the key), and check test 7 again.Ĥ) With engine off, you can toggle test 7 between the two thermistors by switching the key between position 1 & 2. ![]() If it takes more than 10 km to stabilize the temperature the thermostat is suspect, but continue the test regardless.ģ) Stop the car & note the test 7 temperature, then turn the key to position 1, i.e. A procedure to get a reading from both thermistors has been reported in other posts:Ģ) Drive the car about 10 km until the engine is as warm as it will get. Since you have already changed the thermostat I would first check whether the gauge is accurate or not. Also, the engine temp sensor in the head has two thermistors: one for the gauge cluster, a separate one for the DME. So, a low gauge as you describe is indicating engine temp less than 75 C if the gauge and temp sensor are accurate. This is the "buffering" mentioned by tmvE39/E53/Z32. Through the testing procedure below keep in mind that a properly functioning temp gauge is vertical between ~ 75 C and ~ 113 C. ![]() The temperature can be reduced to the low 80s C at maximum power. Depending on the model year, your car may have an electric element in the thermostat which is used to manipulate the thermostat to a lower engine temp when under high load, e.g. Normal operating temp for the 6 cylinder engine is ~95C. With the delta option, they will work as much as needed when useful.Even in -20 C weather my car will reach temperature in 10 km. In high ambient temperatures with fan control dependent on coolant temperature only, the fans will be rotating full RPM at a point well before they have an effect. For instance there are places in the world around the equatorial band that can reach 45C, or higher, and the radiator will not be able to take the coolant below ambient temperature, with only fans to transfer heat to ambient air. Ambient air temperature influences a radiators ability to control coolant temperature. My self, I use coolant/ambient-air delta. This will get you as many different answers as there are people Should it be based in water temp, ambient air or both? My goal basically is to make my PC silent so I entered the world of watercooling.Īnyhow, here's my setup so far.Res(D5 Next) > GPU > 360Rad >CPU > 360Rad> Res I'm almost done with my build and I was wondering if you guys can help me decide if buying additional temp sensors is needed.
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